Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Somewhere over the Rockies...

I thought I would reflect on my first impressions of Haida Gwaii today, as it is one week from today when I'll see it again. Well...I think it will be...we still haven't booked our flights or packed yet. Oops! But we're not perfect at procrastinating...we DID buy Noora her first piece of luggage! Yay for progress!

So....first impressions...well, I'll tell ya..I didn't have a good feeling when the ticket lady in the Vancouver airport told me I had to "walk outside to get onto the plane". Um....seriously? They make planes like that in real life? I honestly thought only private planes and helicopters had "walk-on-yourself" stairs. Ugh...then I saw it. Hello, Tin Can. My immediate reaction was I'm going to die in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It was cozy...very cozy. I DID get a jolt of excitement when I breathed in enough oxygen to allow myself to focus on my surroundings; Haida symbols adorned hats, jackets and a shiny gold necklace which instantly caught my attention. Hmmm, I thought, they obviously didn't die on the WAY to Vancouver...so here's hoping I don't die on the way FROM Vancouver.

Willie thought it would be nice to show me their old cabin/schoolbus in Copper Bay. I'm pretty sure his sister's van yelled at us for making it drive on those roads. WOW....bumpy! The Copper Bay road seemed to have a mysterious feel to it. I was told at one time the road was covered in a canopy of tree branches...I bet that was beautiful but guess what, LOGGING ruined it...ugh. Still, it was a very nice ride. I was surprised to see moss growing all the way up the trees and hanging from branches. Wow, only in a rainforest area I guess. I had never experienced that in Nova Scotia! Then again, our trees are dwarfs compared to these. When we did arrive at the old campsite...there was a bus missing. Willie was shocked to see the deck gone too. Hahaha....poor guy. On our way back, we stopped so I could dip my toes in the Pacific Ocean.....brrrrr!! But I swear it was still warmer than the Atlantic, even if it was only the end of March!

My next moment of "OH GOD, WHAT HAVE I DONE" came when we had to board a ferry to get to the house. Really, now? A tiny model airplane and now a bath toy? I say this because it was a small, very open "ferry". Something that one perhaps WOULD use in a bathtub and not the open frickin' ocean. I see now why the Haida are so resilient! How else would they travel?! Well...as scared as I was, I did manage to enjoy part of the ride. Willie and I got out of his sister's van and enjoyed the slightly-foggy and slightly-chilly view. Little islands tucked away, seagulls gathering on another, open water and then....off in the distance...home.
Welcome to Skidegate!

The smell is very distinct when you arrive on the island. I noticed it again when we returned from our adventure to Prince Rupert for my 20-week ultrasound. I can't really describe it...it just is. Cool, fresh air mixed with a hint of saltiness which is then enhanced with that it's-about-to-rain aroma. And I swear there's a hint of magic in the air. Hmm....no, not even that did it justice. Well, folks, this is a case of "come smell it yourself"!

Driving off of the ferry was another harrowing experience because I thought we were going to fall into the water or bust the van up. But we survived! Huh..it was like he'd done it a million times! Go figure! We drove into Skidegate and he took me on a tour of the village. Why are all the houses SO close together, I thought. I was feeling a bit clausterphobic. Where I came from there was tons of space between houses. I mean, my neighbours consisted of sheep, hay fields, my grandmother's abandoned house and my uncle's house. Any other neighbors were a half-mile down the road in either direction basically. This would take some getting used to. But the view of the ocean helped fend off a panic attack. It's breathtaking. Anywhere you look you either see huge cliffs and cedar trees or open ocean.
View of Skidegate from the old band office

I guess you could say I was overwhelmed. Everything was so different. When we finally got back to his mom's place, I got a very warm welcome, some hugs, a few toys to play with from his nephew (peace offerings, maybe? haha) and a reminder to call my mother. News from the other end?

Snowstorm.

Ahhhhh, it was good to be on the West West Coast.

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